The Pitarra Sierra de Los Lagares of Extramadura
The Province of Extremadura is hot and dry and not blessed with what is generally thought of as wine-making climate – and no-one in his right mind would walk into a wine shop and ask for a vino extremeño.
All of which makes it even more interesting when a wine which is traditionally produced for home consumption - without any thought of commercial exploitation, makes an appearance. Pitarra, for that is its name, is produced in one of Spain’s most beautiful towns, Trujillo, in the Province of Cáceres. Although I have sat many times in what must be the most overwhelmingly beautiful medieval town square in Spain, dominated by the huge church and Pizarro’s statue, I have never come across this particular wine. (Order the local brew and you get something acceptable but inferior).
Pitarra has been used to describe some awful wines, usually sedimented, oxidised, and generally pretty undrinkable. However the true term, when applied to extremeño wines, as in this case, refers to wines which have been produced as naturally as possible, even to the extent of having been aged beneath a layer of fungus (like the famous flor which makes sherry unique). Clarete, rather then red, they have about 13º alcohol, and an ‘alcoholic’ taste which most drinkers will find attractive. This, Spanish wine critics have even been known to refer to as the ‘Pitarra miracle’.
The Bodegas Las Granadas make Pitarra in the traditional fashion from a mixture of white and red grapes (Borba, Alarige, Garnacha, Cencibel, Cabernet), resulting in a beautifully clean colour and taste, almost fruity and totally balanced.
There are a few specialist wine stores with this wine, but it is probably better to order it direct from the source (Bodegas Las Granadas, Avda de Madrid, 10200 Trujillo). However, you had better be quick: once the limited stocks run out you will have to wait for next year’s vintage. The best part to this Spanish wine is the price – which can allow you to buy an amazingly good value Spanish wine…
